Editor’s Note: This article is a reprint. It was originally published on March 8, 2017.
Browse through the accessories, outerwear, and furniture sections of any department store, and you’ll come across a wide variety of handbags, jackets, sofas, and armchairs made from “genuine leather.” Even car interiors often feature this material, with its coveted smell.
But have you ever wondered where the leather used in these items comes from? While most of it is sourced from cows and pigs, there is also a market for leather made from snakes, buffalo, kangaroos, fish, and ostriches.
It may surprise you to learn that the global market for various leather applications is massive, estimated at around $200 billion annually by Undark, a digital publication of the Knight Science Journalism Fellowship Program at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology. Leather footwear is the top-selling category, valued at about $47 billion, followed by gloves at approximately $12.3 billion.
However, the focus of this piece is not on the sources of leather but on the potentially harmful effects of the processing methods used in its production.
The Leather Tanning Industry: A Lucrative Sector
The leather tanning industry is a major player in Bangladesh, with around 90% of the country’s leather being tanned in the capital city of Hazaribagh. According to the Bangladesh Board of Investment, the industry produced about $1.5 billion in leather and leather goods in 2015 and 2016, making it the second-largest export to approximately 70 countries.
While Bangladesh has regulations governing the processing of leather, Undark reports that the industry magnates have evaded regulation and relocated operations to avoid rising labor costs, leaving behind toxic footprints at each location.
In late 2016, after prolonged delays, the government cracked down on the leather industry in Bangladesh. Many tanneries had already relocated or shut down, and the remaining 150 businesses in Hazaribagh were instructed to do the same or move to the new tannery center in Savar, 14 miles away.
Undark likens the efforts to clean up the industry to a transition from the 19th to the 21st century, posing a dilemma as addressing the toxic waste from tanning operations could lead to widespread unemployment.
Environmental and Health Hazards Posed by the Leather Industry
Hazaribagh’s tanneries have discharged approximately 5.8 million gallons of untreated effluents into the Buriganga River, containing hide scraps, flesh, surfactants, chromium III, and ammonium sulfate, among other pollutants. The river, once a source of drinking water for Dhaka, is now considered unsafe due to industrial and human waste contamination.
Chromium, a common tanning agent, has been associated with adverse effects on human health and the environment, especially when it oxidizes to chromium VI, a suspected carcinogen. Testing in Bangladesh revealed elevated chromium levels in chickens fed tannery scraps, leading to concerns about food safety.
Prolonged skin contact with chromium salts used in leather treatment can cause dermatitis and other skin irritations. Experts caution against wearing leather garments like belts, gloves, and shoes due to the potential risks associated with prolonged exposure.
Exposure to tanning toxins and dyes has been linked to various cancers among tannery workers, with compounds in Chromium VI posing respiratory and other health risks. The leather industry’s reliance on toxic chemicals and poor waste management practices has led to environmental pollution and health hazards for workers and communities.
Responsibility in the Fashion Industry and Among Consumers
The fashion industry and consumers alike must consider the ethical implications of leather production and consumption. Transparency in the supply chain is crucial for consumers to make informed choices about the products they buy.
Engaging in some investigative research can provide you with all the information you need.
It is widely known that the fashion industry is a major supplier of leather products. However, some designers and retailers refrain from purchasing from tanneries that violate human rights due to worker age, working conditions, and processing chemicals.
According to Datamyne, which offers data on international trade, shipping records show that $52.24 million worth of leather goods were shipped from Bangladesh to U.S. and European fashion retailers between January and October 2016. While most leather goods now come from sources other than Hazaribagh, Undark points out that many companies have public statements supporting ethical sourcing, human rights, and sustainable manufacturing processes, but few disclose detailed supplier information.
As awareness of the hazardous conditions in tanneries like Hazaribagh grows, consumers are questioning the origins of the leather in their products and whether it was produced in environmentally harmful and exploitative conditions. Richard Pearshouse, author of a Human Rights Watch report, emphasizes that companies have a responsibility to inquire about the source of their leather and ensure the protection of workers.
Furthermore, the dangers of leather extend to rawhide chew toys given to dogs. While many assume these toys are made from meat, they are actually a byproduct of the leather industry and undergo chemical treatments that may pose health risks to pets. It is essential to be aware of the ingredients in your dog’s chew toys to prevent potential harm.
There are alternatives to conventionally tanned leather products, such as vegetable or tree-bark tanning methods, synthetic leather, and other sustainable fabrics. While eliminating leather production may seem like a solution to its harmful effects, it could have significant economic repercussions for families dependent on the industry for income.
In light of these issues, it is crucial to consider ethical sourcing, oversight, and awareness in the production and consumption of leather products. Regulations, such as those concerning carcinogenic substances like Chromium VI, play a vital role in ensuring the safety and ethical practices in the leather industry. El Departamento de Salud y Servicios Humanos (HHS), la Organización Mundial de la Salud (OMS) y (finalmente) la IARC, este químico se ha vuelto estrictamente regulado. Eso no significa que nunca se use, sin embargo. Como observa Gizmodo:
“Desafortunadamente, a falta de arbitraje vinculante de la ONU o un boicot internacional masivo contra el cuero curtido con cromo, no parece haber mucho ímpetu para que estas prácticas cesen. Mientras el primer mundo siga exportando este tipo de trabajos peligrosos a naciones en desarrollo empobrecidas y fácilmente explotadas, nuestro deseo de cuero suave y asequible llevará un alto precio, pagado en sufrimiento humano.”20
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