La ola de café de especialidad que barre la India rural

Coffee is increasingly becoming popular among the traditionally tea-drinking population of north India. “It’s not just about brewing a good cup of coffee but connecting with customers on a deeper level,” said Harmanpreet Singh, who left his family bakery to open a specialty coffee shop in the northern Indian city of Jalandhar. Despite coffee being more popular in southern states, Singh recognized a growing demand for specialty coffee in north India, particularly among the youth and overseas residents. After studying brewing techniques in Bengaluru, Singh opened Buland Café in Jalandhar, which now has 40 outlets across the city and has become a favorite spot for the youth. The beans, sourced from Karnataka, are roasted in various blends, and Singh personally trained his staff on brewing techniques. The coffee culture in India has been on the rise, with more people willing to pay for custom roasted coffee. The growth in demand for specialty coffee in small cities is evident, with subscription-based orders increasing by 50% in one year. Despite India’s association with tea, it also has a long history of coffee consumption, with coffee houses emerging as hangout spots in the 1900s. The arrival of global coffee chains like Starbucks in India has spurred the rise of homegrown specialty coffee brands. While big cities still dominate the scene, smaller cities are quickly catching up, driven by changing palettes and social media trends. Entrepreneurs like Nishant Sinha and Jatin Khurana are experimenting with flavors and creating trendy spaces for coffee lovers in their respective cities. BBC “La idea es capturar la esencia de la bebida que muchos indios crecieron bebiendo”, dice.

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Es un momento emocionante para estar en el negocio, pero el crecimiento viene con su propio conjunto de desafíos.

“La demanda está creciendo, pero los propietarios de cafeterías más pequeñas tienden a recortar costos, ya sea optando por máquinas de calidad inferior, sirviendo shots de café más débiles, o contratando baristas inexpertos”, dice el Sr. Singhal.

Y dirigir el negocio no siempre es rentable dada la alta precio del café y los costos infraestructurales involucrados en administrar tales espacios.

Cuando Neha Das y Nishant Ashish abrieron The Eden’s café en Ranchi en 2021, querían crear un espacio seguro y relajado para que los jóvenes estudiantes se reunieran en la ciudad.

Hoy en día, su café de avellana y cafés fríos se han convertido en los favoritos de muchos.

“Tomó algo de tiempo, pero la longevidad requiere más que solo ganancias”, dice la Sra. Das.

“Se trata de dedicación, elaboración de sabores locales y comprensión de los clientes, incluso si eso significa trabajar con márgenes de beneficio ajustados a largo plazo.”

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